Jewelry Trends 2023: Pink Sapphire, Bold Gold, Chubby Inset Rings

Jewelry featuring pink sapphires has shot up in popularity and value. Clockwise from top: Bayco earrings, Emily P. Wheeler ring, Sutra bracelet, Omi Prive ring, Sylva & Cie necklace, Kevant & Sherart earrings.

Photographer: Joanna McClure for Bloomberg Businessweek

Collectors and designers are going big with bright hues, inset techniques, unadorned gold and creatures from the sea.

The days of dainty, minimalistic jewelry are over. Today collectors and the fashion-forward are embracing colorful gemstones and bold designs in significant pieces that showcase their individuality. There’s a sense of frivolity and playfulness, even at the highest prices, as jewelry lovers express themselves through their bijoux, if not their clothes. (Quiet luxury, this is not!)

Color is front and center in these modern collections. Designers are replacing diamonds with other gems, frequently using hues that clash in a beautiful way. Inlay rings are a perfect example of the current riot of color; candy pink is everywhere as well, especially pink sapphires, which have become coveted in recent years, well before any Barbiecore bump. Jewelers are also letting the pure beauty of yellow gold shine through in simple, geometric designs that don’t need diamonds to dazzle. And in time for The Little Mermaid’s return to cinemas, both color and bold gold appear in ocean-inspired designs.